Classification system for fabric

To understand the many possibilities for “cloth of gold”, I have found it useful to think of it in terms of a classification system, which starts with the constituent parts of cloth of gold’s structure:

1. A “foundation weave“, with possible weaves of:
   tabby/taffeta
   twill, satin
   lampas
   velvet
2. Gold thread(s) as additional weft(s) – the following questions help identify the properties of the gold thread:

A) What was the gold thread made of?

filé thread – thinly pounded gold strips either used flat or wrapped around a
core fiber of silk or animal membrane

drawn wire – metal drawn very fine into a thread

 B) How far across the cloth does the gold thread go?

brocade –  thread just goes across the width of the gold pattern (also called “discontinuous
pattern weft”)

pattern weft (lancé) – thread goes across the entire width of the cloth (also called
“continuous pattern weft”)

C) How smooth is the gold thread pulled?

flat – (normal weave) additional metal-thread weft is pulled tightly across the cloth,
giving it a “flat” surface

looped (frisé) –  (pile weave) additional metal-thread weft is drawn up over a rod to
create loops; think of what modern terry cloth (bath towels) looks like.